1997 Glengoyne 17 year old 48.8% abv Highland Malt Douglas Laing, Old Particular

A pretty rare private cask bottling.

Colour: Amber.

Nose: Lots of pine cones, precious hardwoods, saps, petrichor and soy sauce. Brims with quiet class and opulence. Many dried flowers, sandalwood, kirsch, Irish coffee and some rather tannic mint tea. I find it really beautiful and elegant. With water: develops this rather sublime and incredibly subtle smoky edge. Like soot, earth and roast aubergines. Also figs, old Madeira and spiced fruit chutneys. Big and powerful but without ever being unbalanced or with any lopsided component.

Mouth: Fantastically sappy and full of winter spices, red fruit jams, cordials and savoury meats and broths. All kinds of bouillon, mint bitters, burnt raisins, freshly brewed coffee and dark chocolate. In time it really gets close to some kind of long bottle-aged Jägermeister. With water: lots of black pepper, pu erh teas, Maggi and olive bread.

Finish: Long, spicy, herbal, nicely bitter and earthy with plenty dark chocolate and coffee.

Comments: Superb cask Glengoyne. Punchy, deep, elegant and - most importantly - balanced.