Ardbeg 'Alligator' 51.2%, OB, general release, 2011

Colour: Gold.

Nose: The first feeling I have is 'old Ardbeg', with these whiffs of seaweed, then more fresh herbs, … Maybe also touches of rhubarb. It's no big on smoke and peat but it's still very, well, big. After ten minutes, touches of oranges and damp earth, clay, then liquorice and marzipan. Good complexity. With water: more Ardbegness, meaning more coastal notes here. Fresh oyster, clams and whelks.

Mouth (neat): Straightforward, notes of grapefruits, cider apples, briny, earthy, rooty and liquoricy. Then much more pepper and even chillies and mustard, as well as a nice sweet creaminess (apple liqueur). With water: becomes a little drier and, just like on the nose, rather more coastal and briny. Apple peelings. Maybe a little drying oak in the background.

Finish: Quite long, dry, with notes of bitter chocolate and coffee beans.